Want to see what’s really going on under the water or ice? You can eliminate some of the mystery beneath the water or ice and expand your knowledge by using an underwater fishing camera. An underwater fishing camera can be a wonderful tool and great fun too. An underwater camera can show you many things about your fishing techniques. It can be your eye underwater and you won’t even get wet.
See more fish, catch more fish, and have more fun fishing with an underwater fishing camera. You can put yourself eye to eye with the fish in their natural environment. You will be able to identify different species and how they react to your bait presentation. With an underwater fishing camera, the ice angler easily can determine the size and species of fish. (Fish can be detected with sonar, but it cannot identify what kind they are.)
What is the lake bottom like? Sonar can tell you whether the lake bottom is relatively hard or soft, but it’s difficult to tell whether the lake bottom is sand, gravel, or small rock. The camera shows the bottom easily and can help avoid problems.
The underwater fishing camera is also great for entertainment. You can watch fish and their reactions, even if they aren’t biting. It is also great to just record your fishing adventure so you can bring it home and show all your friends and family.
There are different models of underwater fishing camera and video mechanisms for you to choose from. Use an underwater camera for fishing or diving purposes, or as a supplemental piece of equipment used for ice fishing.
You should be able to see under water from about two feet up to 50 feet. Average viewing distance
in fresh water is five to ten feet. In saltwater, the average is seven to fifteen feet.
You can easily attach the underwater fishing camera to a standard down rigger. Using a standard release clip in reverse the camera is attached to the cable just above the cannon ball. The current will make the camera look backwards at your bait while you fish.
For high-speed fishing your underwater fishing camera can be towed through the water on the HST (high-speed tow) accessory. With the HST accessory you can tow the camera up to 12 knots and have your lures drag directly behind the camera to catch any and all strikes on video.
The camera can look straight down or to the side, and even look slightly back up towards the surface. They are fully adjustable and versatile.
There are several options for controlling the camera while in the water. There’s a stabilizer fin for high current areas and a camera rotation handle for low current areas. By turning the cable with the handle the camera head will rotate with the cable.
Some underwater fishing cameras have the ability drop cameras with as much as 1000 feet of cable. Beyond 500 feet you have to add special video amplifiers which add cost to the system.
A submersible, waterproof video camera will mount to any standard camera tripod and work just as well above the water for surveillance, sport activities, wild life viewing, swimming pools, and even for security around homes and businesses.
Underwater Cameras Info provides detailed information on underwater cameras, including underwater digital cameras, underwater video cameras, and underwater fishing cameras, as well as underwater camera housing and cases. Underwater Cameras Info is the sister site of Disposable Cameras Web.
There is a craze going on that produces big bass, it’s called flippin.Flippin puts the lure where the big bass are…..in cover!You will want a 7 1/2 to 8 foot rod with at least 20 pound test on your reel with the drag tightened. You will also want a 1/8 ounce to 1 ounce weight according to the cover you are trying to go through. Don’t forget the big hook, 4/0 to 5/0 is best in my opinion.
The technique…..silently put your boat within 20 feet of the cover you want to fish. Hold the rod in your right hand (presuming you are right handed). Measure the line to let out according to your rod length and with your left hand pull about 2 feet of line out. Make sure the reel is in free spool and place your thumb on the spool. Move the rod so the lure pendulums to your target and when you have the lure where you want
it to be, move your other hand with the line in it towards the reel. The lure will fall in the cover with hardly any distubance. Now, watch the water and your line. Sometimes just a slight line movement will indicated a hit or even cover movement and you won’t feel anything until you set the hook. When you have a hit, drop the tip of your rod, reel up the slack and set the hook really hard.
Charles E. White has fished for almost 50 years for bass from California to Florida. In his lifetime, it is estimated that he has caught over 6,000 bass. His biggest bass is a 12 pound 14 ounce that hangs on his wall in his office.
Charles has fished with people who have never fished for bass before and taught them how to become successful anglers and also has fished with the Pros in Florida.
His website about fishing for bass is at:http://www.bassfishingweekly.com.
Fall is by far one of the best times to fish any smallmouth lake. This is a great time to catch your limit of big fish.
Smallies like to stock up ahead for winter, a time when they are not as likely to get a belly full of shad or whatever baitfish is available in that lake.
So, the key is to locate baitfish. That’s where you will find the smallies.
Your focus in the fall will not be much different than in the spring. Set your sites on shallow shelves adjacent to deeper water (flats that drop sharply), also rocky humps and shoals with patches of grass mixed in.
Fish can be at any depth, but you will mostly want to look in 8 to 12 feet of water in the fall.
This is going to be a bit hit and miss because smallmouths gather in big schools of up to 50 fish. So
if you don’t find them quickly, move on.
The best baits for this method are spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and hard jerkbaits fished quickly. These allow you to cover a lot of water fast. Keep the lure just under the surface.
When you do nail one and suspect there are more to be had, but they have refused your original offer, try using a slower moving bait like a soft plastic tube.
Work the area slowly and completely. Follow-up is extremely important to catching the maximum amount of fish from an area.
Once you have found them, you don’t want to leave any of them behind.
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By Bobby Ivie
Bobby Ivie is an avid fishman and owner of Fishing-Hunting-Camping.com. He makes the biggest part of his living on the Internet, NetBizWorkshop.net
This article may be reprinted as long as this source box is added and the source box hyperlinks are kept intact.
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When I saw the price on a minnow-imitation lure I gasped. At those prices I’d have to take up needlepoint to be able to afford a hobby. But I practically have salt water in my blood having been raised on the Chesapeake Bay. I wasn’t about to give up the seemingly endless stream of days and nights on gently rolling seas fighting the adrenaline-pumping pull of Tautog, Striped Bass, Weakfish, slammer Blues, Spots, Croakers and the occasional eel or small shark. It didn’t take me long to exhaust a string of options leaving only one sensible answer: make my own salt water lures.
Now I’m about as handy as an elephant trying to crochet while wearing mittens. But the craft of lure making can be an amazingly simple one. Besides piquing my interest and developing some first rate manual skills, it really is a lot of fun and kept me out of trouble on many a cold, rainy weekend when they weren’t bitin’ anyway. Now an “old hand” at lure making, if I can produce fish-catching salt water lures, believe me, you can too.
Two of the easiest and most practical lures to make and use are spoons and top water plugs. Cheapskate that I can be, I’ve learned to make highly effective spoons and plugs that fish slam without hesitation out of materials available for free or at low cost. My arsenal of lures cost me less than the price of a big lunch. Here’s how:
By far the easiest lures to fabricate are spoons. One plain-pattern stainless steel tablespoon will make two lures. Start by using some old ones from a thrift store. (I told you I was cheap)
• Break off the handle where it joins the bowl of the spoon. Hold or clamp down the bowl and work the handle up and down a few times – it’ll snap right off.
• Sand the rough edges smooth to eliminate burrs and snags. Drill an eight inch diameter hole through both ends of the bowl.
• Attach a number 4 treble hook using a stainless steel split ring available at hardware, craft or bait and tackle shops. Terminal tackle is attached to the other end of the spoon bowl using another split ring and corrosion-resistant snap swivel.
• For added weight use a barrel sinker and split shot about 30 inches above the spoon. That’s it. Sizes vary from tiny sugar spoons to cooking utensil ware if you’re after bigger game. All sizes have worked for me.
About 30 yards behind the boat the sea exploded as a geyser of water erupted skyward. An 18” long Tuna twirled and somersaulted in the air as if performing for the circus before crashing back into the briny deep – with my tablespoon lure locked in its jaws.I was happier than a set of twins at Christmas. I landed that one and six more of its warm-to-the-touch brethren on that drizzle-chilled morning off the Pacific coast of South America. Small Tuna are fun to catch as they’ll attack a trolled top-water lure with gusto, performing their incredible acrobatics to get to your lure. Try it. You’ll see.
The handle of the spoon also makes an effective top-water lure so you get double service from one original piece of hardware. Two for the price of one, I like that.
• Drill an eighth-inch hole through the wide end of the handle near the tip to attach your split ring. This is the terminal tackle end.
• The narrower end will have the shank of the hook protruding beyond it about three quarters of an inch. The eye of the hook will lie along the underside of the handle where it can be attached by soldering, or a stud inserted through the handle and hook eye to secure it.
• Sometimes I tie trailing “hair” made of nylon rope fibers along the hook shank, wrapping it on fly/tying style with fine cotton thread. White or red streamer tails are my preferred colors. Often I fish the “jig” plain by trolling it 25 ft. or so behind the boat. It rides high but the rotation and flash it produces force Sierra, Snapper and Wahoo or other predator fish to charge it like a fleeing baitfish.
Sharp pain shot through my hands as the line tightened around them. Slowly, I was being pulled down towards the surface of the deep blue choppy Pacific by the freight train that had caught the end of my line. This was
a battle I was going to lose. Mercifully, the pressure eased a little – enough for me to begin to straighten up. The line around my hands now tinged with red, I began hauling in whatever danced below. A few minutes later, a sleek, yellow-spotted Sierra darted to and fro two feet below the surface flashing silver in the sunlight. Its last few moments were spent in one last tremendous surge for final freedom. The 40 pound test mono barely held and it took the two of us, me using the line and my partner grabbing the thrashing tail, to sling the snapping, writhing predator into the boat.
Another few minutes passed as we extracted my 5-inch long, spoon-handle-fabricated lure from the gaping jaws lined with an impressive row of razor sharp teeth. Eleven more joined it before I had to stop. My hands were starting to look like hamburger. Was the blood in the boat from the fish or me? My two fishing companions looked closely at my home-fabricated lure now. They’d caught nothing to my fourteen fish. Their snickers disappeared. “Can you make one for us?” “Sure thing, as soon as we get back.” I smiled all the way home – and then some.
Top Water Plugs
An old broom handle will make eight or nine good plugs 5 inches long.
• Saw them off to length, then drill an eighth inch diameter hole through the center the length of the wooden blank. You’ll need a seven inch long piece of heavy wire to run through the length of the plug. A dismantled wire coat hanger snipped off to length makes through-wire for four or five plugs, depending on their length.
• The wire is bent into a closed loop front and back to attach terminal tackle and the rear hook. Taper the plug’s front end to 45 degrees, use brass or non-corroding screw eyes to attach salt water treble hooks below and behind the body.
• Add plastic doll eyes for a more realistic look. Eyes are available at craft supply shops. The solid, molded ones come in a variety of sizes and last forever.
• Paint with acrylics. Follow the most common color schemes of commercial plugs or experiment with your own. A florescent orange body top water plug with bulging white / black eyes and a streamer of green hair around the rear treble hook nearly brought me to tears one trip. The fish just wouldn’t leave it alone!
Costs? Let’s see: a length of broom handle – free, wire coat hanger – free, doll’s eyes a nickel each, 8 ounce can of acrylic paint – one dollar seventy five cents, but one can will paint dozens of lures. Usually two colors are used. Terminal tackle about 30 cents per lure – tops. The whole thing totals out at less than 70 cents each lure when I’m spending big. Spoons might run me 20 cents or less – just the price of the terminal tackle and my labor of love. You could spend a little more or little less.
Save a TON of money, have fun and catch more fish by making your own salt water lures. Lure making can soon change from a pastime into a profitable endeavor if you hit on a hot combination and start making them for your friends. If you have a child or grandchild who fishes, teaching them can add to the irresistible allure of the sport. A number of online and offline publications are available to deepen your lure-making knowledge and skills. Don’t cry if you lose a lure, you can easily fabricate its twin. Besides, by making your own lures, for the price of one commercial lure you can finance the fabrication of literally dozens of your own. Let me know how you make out. I’ve just finished a fresh batch I’m itching to try out. See you later, I’ve gone fishin’
To see photos of some of the author’s home-crafted lures, e-mail him at: pentagon_elsb@hotmail.com and ask for the salt water lure photos.
Prof Larry M. Lynch is a bi-lingual copywriter, expert author and photographer specializing in business, travel and education-related writing in South America. His work has appeared in Transitions Abroad, South American Explorer, Escape From America, Mexico News and Brazil magazines in print and online. He teaches at a university in Cali, Colombia. To get original, exclusive articles and content for your newsletter, blog, website or product contact him at: lynchlarrym@gmail.com.
Brown trout fishing can prove very challenging. This is due in part to the fact that brown trout are smart fish. They tend to feed at dusk or at night. They do put up a fight though and that can be a great challenge to the fisherman. But, because of the difficultly to catch the brown trout, this fish has not been a big time game fish. But, there is much to know about it anyway.
The brown trout, or Salmo Trutta, is also known by other names including German brown trout, German trout, English brown trout, European brown trout or Brownies. The brown trout is generally a small fish. It ranges in length from 16 inches to about two feet. It weighs up to eight pounds. The coloring on this fish tends to be light brown on the backs and silvery on the sides and bottom.
The brown trout is natively a European fish. In the waters of the Atlantic and even into western
Asia is where they were originally found. They were introduced in the United States and Canada in 1883. They can now be found in most of the Canadian waters and the Great Lakes. The fish themselves seem to have had trouble being successful in the Canadian waters, but have been successful in Lake Michigan. When introduced there, they proved to be able to withstand intense degraded habitats that other trout could not survive in.
The survival of the brown trout is due in part to the fact that they like to feed at night and therefore the adult has very few predators. In fact, its main predator is the human fisherman. The brown trout has been stocked in the Michigan Lake for years and has become an important part of the lake’s ecosystem. Brown trout fishing is very popular here. In many places, surf casting brown trout has become a popular sport.
Ken Austin
All About Trout and Trout Fishing
Bass fishing is like any other sport, if you have the knowledge and the understanding of the opponent it allows you to be more successful. You can look at it like Turkey hunting, the more the hunter understands the trails, water areas, food areas and habits of the Turkey the easier it will be for the hunter to locate them. The same is true with Bass fishing, the more you understand the Bass, the circumstances and conditions you face the more successful you will be at catching them. Here are a few factors of a better understanding of the bass.
SURVIVAL: Largemouth bass need three elements to survive:
Food, Oxygen, and cover.
If any one of these elements is not present in a body of water a bass could not survive, just by knowing why these three elements are so important for a bass’s survival will help you to become a more successful angler.
The first element we talk about is FOOD. Believe it or not, shad is NOT the 1st choice of a bass. Shad is a very common food for the bass as well as other natural baits, however the number 1 food choice of a bass is a crawfish (also know as crawdads, crayfish, etc.). A few years ago a study was done where 100 shad and 100 Crawfish were in a tank of water with all species of bass (Spotted, Smallmouth, Largemouth) and Surprise the crawfish were eaten 8 to 2 over the shad. A couple of reasons for this are that the crawfish are a very easy prey for a bass to catch and they are fairly easy for bass to find. Studies show that there are actually more crawfish found in vegetation areas than around rocky areas (or as some may know as Rip-Rap).
A bass will eat just about anything at any given time such as: Mice, Ducklings, Frogs, Rats, Snakes, Worms, Salamanders, Grubs, Lizards, Insects, Leeches, Baitfish, etc. This is one reason there are so many different shapes and types of artificial baits on the market today.
The next element is OXYGEN. Oxygen is an element that any living creature needs to survive. The main reason a bass fisherman angler should pay attention to oxygen is that a bass requires it to survive. By knowing water oxygen content in various areas and angler will develop a better understanding why a bass acts the way it does under the many different conditions. When a bass has a limited supply of oxygen, it tends to get more disoriented, and
much slower or lethargic. The “Key” in understanding the rules of oxygenic water is that the cooler the water, the more oxygen content and the warmer the water the less oxygen content. The more oxygen a bass can get usually during the warmer months the more active it will be. Usually during the summer when the water temperature hits the 80 degree mark or higher, the oxygen in the water will start to diminish.
What does this have in common with bass fishing? Well, a bass will usually do one of two things in a condition such as this. A bass will drop down to water that is cooler for a larger supply of oxygen, or a bass will usually head for vegetation areas because of the constant producing of oxygen that aquatic plants provide. This usually happens in spring, summer and early fall.
Here are some areas where ample supplies of oxygen can be found:
Power. Plants- because of the constant discharge of oxygenic water. Deep. water areas- the deeper the cooler water a better supply of oxygen. Around. Trees, Sump, & Log areas-because of the porous wood will hold oxygen. Rivers-. because of the constant flowing of the water. Vegetation. areas-remember, the deeper the cooler water a better supply of oxygen. Mouths. of Creeks- again, because of the constant-in-flow of fresh water. Wind. Blown Banks- a constant oxygen source, these are just a few areas there are many more…
And the third element is COVER. Cover is an extremely important element when it comes to a bass for many reasons here are a few of the most important ones.
One reason would be for protection. A bass , being known mostly as a “Ambush Fish” will use cover such as vegetation, rocks, stumps, trees, fall-downs, structures, docks, holes, etc….to dart out after it’s prey. A bass really is a lazy-by-nature type of fish and will extend the least amount of energy for the greatest amount of benefit. Bass fish are known as territorial fish and will not travel a long distance.
A second reason a bass fish needs cover is because a bass does not have eye lids like you or I and prolonged exposure to the Sun’s rays, a bass will eventually go blind. The next time you see someone bass fishing; you will usually see the bass being caught in a shaded area, and in and around covered areas.
For more information visit Bass Attacks LLC website at http://www.bassattacksdvd.com, by email chris@bassattacksdvd.com, or by phone call 1-888-802-4277.
Chris Bowser
Fly-fishing is an ancient angling method especially effective in catching trout and salmon. This distinct method of angling uses artificial flies to lure or excite fish. Fly-fishing helps anglers catch the fish easier than the traditional way.
There are two basic forms of fly-fishing, dry flies and wet flies.
Dry flies need coating with floatant in order for it to sit in the surface of the water. Dry flies are mostly effective in upstream and moving water. Dry flies help anglers’ spot where fish resides like pools and pocket in streams. Thus, it is easier to detect them and catch the fish.
The use of wet flies is beneath the surface of the water. Wet flies are nymphs, lures and true wet flies. It works as effective as dry flies except that in cases where weeds are many and almost touching the surface, wet flies blends with the weeds and thus may not be as effective as the dry flies.
Fly-fishing was developed in the 19th century, dry fly technique is very effective especially for slower and clearer rivers.
This is because weeds in rich rivers tend to grow closer to the surface, thus traditional wet fly fishing is almost ineffective. Dry fly fishing is thus useful by keeping the fly and the line floating on the surface. This makes fish excited and aggressive; the angler can then spot the location of the fish and in turn catches fish easier.
Later developments of fly-fishing made this concept as basis, thus in the latter part of the 19th century, anglers develop love for fly-fishing. This gave birth to fly-fishing, the sport among its aficionados.
Various parts of the United States host fly-fishing sports such as in the waters of Catskill Mountains of New York and the provinces of Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, British Columbia, Alberta and California.
Anglers in North America also develop various literatures pertaining to fly-fishing. The sport of fly-fishing and all these literatures gave North America the reputation of being the birthplace of dry fly-fishing, specifically the City of Calgary, Alberta. It is arguably one of the world’s best trout rivers, thus it remains to be the epicenter for the Western
Fly Fishing in North America.
Various other states in America keeps the growing number of fly-fishers such as Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Arkansas. The growing number of anglers that are drawn to the sport of fly-fishing keeps the popularity at its peak.
Dry or wet fly-fishing, whichever is more effective in the rivers where you fish will help keep the sport exciting. It may not be long that other countries will learn to love the sport and make it a globally loved sport.
How does fly-fishing work?
Fly fishing uses longer and lighter rods; sizes vary from 2m (6 ft) for fresh water and up to 4m (14 ft) for salt water fly-fishing. Weight for fresh water rods are between two to five ounces.
Popular types of casts in fly-fishing follow its variety in situation specifics. Anglers uses common cast when the angler whisks the fly rod forward and back using his forearm and upper arm, the wrist is used to soften the motion.
The rod movement varies from 10 o’clock position to 2 o’clock position without touching the ground. Anglers do this to load the rod tip with energy and to travel the fly line creating distance and control; they call this motion false casting.
False casting needs to be done to excite the fish or make it aggressive enough so that when the fly touches the surface, it will be sure that the area where the fly touches is where most of the fish are located and thus will be easier to spot and catch them.
Whether you are a fly-fishing aficionado for outdoor excitement or having fun with your family, using the proper equipment will help you develop love for the sport. Keep it exciting and enjoy fishing at its finest in most popular fly-fishing locations in the country. There are many locations, thus you will not have a problem in spotting nice locations for you and your family for this wonderful outdoor adventure.
Shannon Brown is a native of Colorado and an avid fly fisherman. He has created a new website just for fly fisherman. Stop by and visit him at: All About Fly Fishing
Take a kid fishing and they will learn to be successful in life.As an avid fisherman for over 30 years I have to look back on my life and consider it a success. I credit that success to my passion for fishing. Why? You ask. Well, I am the youngest of three boys of a single mother. My oldest brother was six years older than I was and loved the outdoors. On occasion he would take me with him and his friends to go fishing. We really had a great time. We caught a few fish, but most of the time we just wound up in a rock skipping contest or swimming.
When I was ten, my brother joined the Navy right out high school. His best friend Joe and I had become pretty good friends. Joe would still come by and pick me up every couple of weeks to go fishing with him. I still remember the first time he took me fishing some thirty years later. Joe liked to fish for catfish, but on my first trip with him I picked up a small white plastic grub worm and asked him to tie it on for me. He said “You won’t catch anything with that” and began to dig around in his tackle box for his “secret lure.” I protested until he gave in and showed me the proper way to attach it to my line.
Joe returned to his tackle box as I headed to the shoreline to present my offering to my prey. On my first cast, I caught the first fish of the day, moments later I had another. Before Joe could even get his line wet I had three fish to my credit, and my own “secret bait”. I believe to this day if I went back to that spot and cast out a white grub,
I would catch a fish. That is when I really fell in love with fishing.
The reason I believe my love for fishing helped mold me into a loved husband and an idolized father is all of life’s lessons I learned from it. Patience for one, what I mean is if you cast your bait out then just reel it back in. You won’t catch many fish. The lesson in that is to cast in the right spot the first time, and then wait for the desired response. To translate this I mean you can’t just go from job to job or marriage to marriage and expect to be successful at it.
By taking a kid fishing you also teach them respect for the space of others. For example: If you cast your line over the line of another fisherman you both become tangled, greatly decreasing the success for both of you to catch any fish. To top it off they may become angry, especially if you continue to do it. Translation: Teaching a kid to fish teaches them to co-exist with others by respecting their space.
These are only a few of life’s lessons that can be learned from fishing. You may know a kid that would benefit for a lifetime from the lessons in fishing, even if you just wind up skipping rocks. If you don’t have any kids or are considering having a kid, I would recommend Big Brothers/Big Sisters. They match you with disadvantaged kids in your area, all you do is hang out with them every couple of weeks and teach them life’s lessons. I was involved with them as a boy and still hang out with my big brother from time to time.
The Fishing Vacation Guide- All the very best fishing vacation destinations, fishing tips, fish recipes, and so much more!
When you are planning to catch that Largemouth Bass you always dreamed of, there is an
important part of your fishing experience that is very necessary. The decision on the
Rod and Reel you choose can make the difference between landing that Extreme Largemouth
Bass or going home with the minnows you brought for bait. Choosing the perfect Rod and
Reel is difficult for even the experienced angler, so you can imaging the confusion that
the beginner bass fisherman faces.
There are two basic concepts that are important to understand about rods. These are: POWER
and ACTION.
ROD ACTION
Rod Action refers to the bend in the rod. Rods bend in different parts and can be separated
by three different areas: The last quarter or essentially near the tip. At the last third
to the tip and throughout the whole rod. The bend at the tip area is known as a Fast Action
Rod. The last third to the tip is known as a Moderate Action Rod, and the bend throughout
the rod is known as a Slow Action rod. Knowing the difference between these different
actions is important and will determine which type of fishing experience you will have and
potentially change the way you fish and the experience you have.
FAST ACTION RODS: Bend at the tip: Will affect the cast and throw since the force will be
at the tip and you can usually cast farther and longer . However, since you have more force
at the tip, you can fling your bait right off the hook due to the whipping effect that you
are able to create. Slow and Moderate Action Rods are less yielding and have less tendency
to have a whip effect and won’t throw your bait off the hook as freely, but you don’t get
the distance during your cast as with the Fast Action Rod.
ROD POWER
Rod Power refers to the ability of the rod to handle different lure weights and line sizes.
Rods range from different designations of Ultra-Light all the way through to Heavy. The
lighter the rod, the lighter the weight that a rod can handle. This determines its power.
So, for example, an ultra-light rod may only be able to handle lures weighing 1/32 ounce
to 1/4 ounce. As the rod increases in
its designations, the POWER of the rod increases and
will be able to hold more progressive lure weights. Also, the line pound test increases
with the increase of the size of the rod such that an ultra-light rod may only be able to
handle 2-6 pound test and a heavy rod may be able to handle up to 15-20 pound test line.
Different places and areas for fishing will determine what type of Rod you may choose based
on the types of lakes and grasses you will be faced with. The All Around Choice varies
with the fisherman and the experience depending on the location, temperature and seasonal
changes in the environment.
In my opinion, the best choice for the beginner Largemouth Bass fisherman is a medium-light
power, fast action rod for use with a spinning reel. This type of rod gives the beginner
the ability to feel the casting action and have the power to bring in a decent sized
Largemouth Bass. The cast is not only easy, but you can feel the differences by testing
different casting techniques which will further help you get to know the way in which the
rod gives and takes with each different cast technique until you master both the Power and
Action of your particular rod. If you are going after larger bass in the over 10 pound
range, then it may be more prudent to use a medium power rod as you can control the rod
better and land the larger fish with less chance of loosing it or having it spit out the
lure . Remember the larger the rod, the heavier both the lure and weight you can use but
you loose a little in the cast.
There are many different Rods to choose from and depending upon the type of fishing you
plan to do will determine which type of rod you choose. Planning properly by getting
familiar with the differences between the Action and the Power of different rods will
enable you to go out and fish on different days with different climates, wind conditions
and terrains successfully. They make different Rods and Reels for a purpose, learn which
ones will work better under different conditions and you will land that Extreme Largemouth
Bass of your dreams.
There are many choices when it comes to buying your first fly rod.As an avid fly fisherman for the past 25 years, and having taught a wide range of different age groups and skill levels .This is what has worked best for me and the people I have taught over the years.
Material-A graphite rod, although it is more expensive due to the fact that it is made from a high end material is the perfect choice for the beginner. It will be light and pliable very durable and will provide a smoother cast.
Action-Flyrods come in a wide varity of different actions (bending resistance) slow, medium and fast. Medium action rods are more limber and offer a good choice for beginners since they are easier to use and can handle many fishing conditions.
Weight- 4 to 6 weight: This is also very suitable for trout, panfish and small bass. A 4-weight is perfect for delicacy and
finesse, while a 6-weight works best on big waters or in windy conditions. The middle weight – 5 – is the most versatile for trout whether you want finesse on spring-fed creeks or bigger, wider rivers.
Length- 8′ – 9′: These lengths are good fits for trout and bass fishing. The longer length will give you more casting range and will improve your line control.
Grips-There are many styles of grips and materials used, this will end up being a personal preference. The grip has to be something that you are comfortable using all day.
If you want an all-purpose and well balanced fly rod, look for a 5- or 6-weight rod, 8-9 feet in length with a medium to medium-fast action. This combination will tackle nearly all of the fly fishing situations you may encounter.
Andy Klynstra is the Webmaster for Oil-Net.Com Inc. and has 20 years experience as a Journeyman Carpenter. http://www.oil-net.com